One buckle my shoe
One two buckle my shoe rhyme
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One, Two, Buckle My Shoe, United Kingdom
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Coleford
United Kingdom
Sleeps up to 6
4 Bedrooms, 1 Bathroom
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About this home
This unique cottage in Clearwell dates back to Tudor times and was once a small pub with a brewery and cobblers upstairs. It was eventually converted to residential use in the nineteenth century, but there...
Plum guide - Nominated HomeThis home is nominated for the Plum Guide Award. Find out more
Top Amenities
Balcony / patio
Barbeque
Bathtub
Board games
Cafetiere
Central heating
Staying in The Welsh Borders
The border regions between England and Wales have a long, fraught history. Offa’s Dyke, an earthwork dating back to the eighth century, stretches most of the way, separating the two countries, but luckily the relationship is more cordial these days. The Forest of Dean dominates Gloucestershire’s part of the region,...
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Home Rules
Children welcome (1-12 years)
Infants welcome (under 12 months)
Pets welcome
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What the photos might not tell you, but we do
Due to the age of the property, some of the beams and ceilings are a little low, and the floors uneven
There's private parking space for two cars at the property and further spots available on the street nearby
The host accepts bookings with young children, although parents should be aware that the Aga is often hot to the touch and the stairs are steep
There's lockable bike storage available
The host requests that guests take off their shoes when inside the home
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4 bedrooms, 5 beds
1 bathroom
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Optinal fees subject to a 3. 5% handling charge
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Your host Ellie
This home is managed directly by its owner who will be your point of contact before and during your stay.
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As well as looking after two holiday cottages — one in Wells and the other in Clearwell — Ellie also runs Andelli Art Gallery in Wells and it's clear she has an aesthetic eye judging by the pleasant interiors of her homes.
Plum Guide
United Kingdom
Coleford
Collection of N. S. Mustafaev. 18th century shoes. Part 2. Buckles
Last time we enjoyed the beauty of the lines, shapes and textures of Rococo shoes, today we will pay attention to the buckles. 1784 British Museum com
Nazim Sultanovich tells: "The biggest change in shoe fashion of the 18th century was the change of fasteners from ties to buckles. Buckles on men's shoes appeared in the 17th century, in the 1660s, on women's - a little later, this is due to the fact that dresses were long and clung to the buckles at the hem.
Andreas Stech. Portrait of Aleksander Zaslawski-Ostrogski. Around 1670
Andreas Stech. Portrait of Aleksander Zaslawski-Ostrogski. Around 1670. Fragment.
Men's shoes now have a small buckle.
Jan van Kessel (II). Portrait of a family in the garden - 1679. Detail
Jan van Kessel (II). Portrait of a family in the garden - 1679. Fragment. This portrait was painted 9 years later than the top one, and the lady still has bows on her shoes.
Until the 1710s, all women's shoes were fastened with silk ribbons. When, by 1730, the hem of the skirt noticeably rose, and the pannier-framed skirt came into fashion, the problem of a catchy hem disappeared and women's shoes began to be decorated with large richly decorated buckles on a par with men's.
Anton Wilhelm Tischbein - Bildnis der Gattin des Kunstlers mit Sohnchen, circa 1783
Ladies wedding shoes made of copper-coloured silk taffeta with a bluish sheen. Rhinestone buckles. The shoes are accompanied by a note in English stating that the bride was wearing these shoes at her wedding on November 21, 1784. http://www.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1404 Photo courtesy of N.S. Mustafayev
Petit-Maitre in Wool Coat, the Pockets, the Collar, and the Buttonholes embroidered: Gilet with pockets, also embroidered etc. (1787) Galerie des Modes
Collection of buckles XVIII century N. S. Mustafayeva. This photo of the buckles and almost everything below is mine.
Shoe buckles of the 18th century and from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. Large - male, small - female.
Men's buckles differ from women's or in larger size: they are quite wide, often high, and have a sharp bend.
Pompeo Batoni - Portrait of John Talbot, later 1st Earl Talbot. 1773
Buckles for men's shoes of the 18th century and from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
Mourning buckle for men's shoes 18th century with black rhinestones. The etiquette of the French royal court required during the first period of "Great Mourning", called "woolen mourning", to wear blackened silver, steel or bronze buckles. In the second period ("silk mourning"), silver buckles with black stones were allowed (source http://www.blason-armoiries.org/institutions/d/deuils-particuliers.htm). In this photo, you once again see such a buckle. And from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
1786 A man dressed according to the rules of "Great (woolen) mourning". The buckles of his shoes are of bronze or steel. Source http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.ru/2014/03/cabinet-des-modes-18e-cahier-2e-figure.html?spref=pi
"The manner of wearing unofficial mourning" , 1781, "Galerie des Modes". http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.ru/2014/10/on-mourning.html There are buckles with black rhinestones on the shoes.
Funeral buckle 18th century with black rhinestones. and from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. Fake stones were invented by the late 18th century jeweler G. Strass. He himself called them "rock crystal", but a distorted version of his last name - "rhinestones" went to the people.
Nobles and court ladies tried to outdo each other with sophistication and richness of decoration. The buckles were engraved, covered with enamel, inlaid with diamonds, pearls and semi-precious stones.
Francisco Goya Jose Monino y Redondo, conde de Floridablanca circa 1783
In fact, they have become jewelry. Shoes wore out and were thrown away, buckles passed from one shoe to another and were inherited.
Laurent Pecheux. Felipe de Borbon y Farnesio, infante de Espana y duque de Parma. Earlier 1765
The high status of the owner in the eyes of others was confirmed not only by the value of the metal and decoration, but also by the size. In the second half of the XVIII century. buckles have reached enormous size. Often they completely covered the arch of the foot.
Francisco Goya. Retrato del politico y financiero espanol Francisco Cabarrus. 1788
Buckle of the 18th century from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. See how sharp her curve is?
Nazim Sultanovich continues to tell: “The style of such buckles is called Artois. this type of buckles from 1770 to 1790 years
Francisco Goya. Juan Agustin Cean Bermudez, circa 1792-1793
Pair of rectangular buckles with large rhinestones and blued steel mechanism, in a box. No labels. End of the 18th century. Probably England. and from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. Photo source http://www.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1382
The main feature is a rectangular shape, large size and strong bend. This applied to both male and female buckles.
Among other style differences, it is indicated that they were less massive, often with rhinestones.
Buckle of the 18th century from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. To make the stones shine brighter, gold foil is placed inside under the crystal.
Buckle for women's shoes. Silver, rhinestones, steel. Great Britain. End of the 18th century. From the collection of N. S. Mustafaev
She is in profile)
18th century buckle with rhinestones from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. Buckles with rhinestones were not branded, so it is difficult to accurately determine the manufacturer from them.
18th century buckle with rhinestones from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
18th century buckle with rhinestones from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
18th century buckle with rhinestones from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
18th century buckle with rhinestones from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. Detail
Buckle of the XVIII century with rhinestones from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
Buckles without rhinestones were made from thinner strips of metal, often with a lacy effect.
Buckle of the 18th century from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
Sometimes initials were engraved on precious metal buckles to prevent theft. Louis-Leopold Boilly. Portrait of Maximilien de Robespierre, circa 1791
The name of the buckles "Artois" comes from the Comte d'Artois, who fled to England after the revolution of 1789 and, in fact, was the French ambassador there, and later King Charles X of France.
He is believed to have introduced huge buckles into the mogu. The peak of fashion came in 1777, when the term arose. Witnesses write that their weight could reach 8 - 10 ounces, that is, 220 - 280 grams.
Francisco de Goya. Miguel de Muzquiz y Goyeneche, conde de Gausa. 1783-1785
Mourning buckle for men's shoes XVIII century with black rhinestones from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
The hero of Richard Sheridan's comedy "A Trip to Scarborough" (1777) Lord Foppigton notes that if earlier the purpose of the buckles was to hold shoes on the foot, now everything has changed and shoes are needed only to hold the buckles.
A satire on men's fashion from 1777: giant buttons and buckles. One eyewitness recalled that the buckles were sometimes so large that they scratched the parquet)
The huge size required a high lift, and in order to create complete symmetry, it was necessary to make a right and left buckle (that's why some buckles have RIGHT / LEFT inscriptions) .
Buckles of the 18th century from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. These buckles are marked "right" and "left". And they are with a special mechanism.
This kind of buckle always has a brand that can be used to identify the manufacturer. In addition, this mechanism is patented.
Another buckle from the 18th century with mechanism, shown below how it opens. First you need to fasten the smaller part to the whip, and then close the buckle.
Buckles of the 18th century from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
Buckle XVIII century with mechanism from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev . Decorated with black rhinestones, which suggests that she was mourning
Francisco Goya. Retrato de Carlos IV de Espana. 1789
Francisco Goya. Retrato de Carlos IV de Espana. 1789. Fragment
Of course, large buckles were inconvenient, as they led to premature wear of shoes, and in addition, they could catch long clothes and, especially, the dress of a partner when dancing.
The cotillion dance. James Caldwell - printmaker. MARCH 1771.
In the late 1780s, huge buckles are gradually replaced by ties and laces. "
Portrait of Nicolas Chvtelain by Johann Friedrich Augut, 1791, neue Pinakothel.
The buckles of the representatives of the upper classes were made of gold and silver, the townspeople ordered them from bronze.0002
Oval buckles for men's shoes. End of the 18th century. USA. c. 1770s. And from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
Captain Edward Vernon (1723-1794). by Francis Hayman
18th century buckle from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
Johann Zoffany. Patrick Heatly (between 1783 and 1787)
Buckles for men's shoes. Pair. Silver, steel. Manufacturer: Thomas Ellis. 1790th. Great Britain. And from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. Photo source http://www.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1246
Retrato de Felipe V e Isabel de Farnesio, por Louis-Michel van Loo (c. 1743). Museo del Prado (Madrid).
Retrato de Felipe V e Isabel de Farnesio, por Louis-Michel van Loo (c. 1743). Museo del Prado (Madrid). Fragment
Nazim Sultanovich also has buckles of a similar design:
Buckles of the 18th century from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. This is a set of buckles: large ones for shoes, small ones for breeches.
Pay attention to the picture below - the buckles of shoes and breeches are made in the same style.
Pompeo Batoni. Sir Sampson Gideon and an unidentified companion. 1767
Pompeo Batoni. Sir Sampson Gideon and an unidentified companion. 1767. Fragment
Buckle of the 18th century from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
They did not make any special holes-blocks, as they are today on shoes, on the clubs, but simply pierced the fabric with very sharp teeth of the buckle.
This photo shows how sharp the teeth were on the buckles. And pay attention to one more lovely detail - in the center the teeth close into a heart) Rococo!
There are buckle marks on the clubs here. Since the fabric of this shoe is over 300 years old, sticking teeth into it is blasphemy. We just attached a buckle of the right design and size to one of the shoes to show you approximately what it looked like
Straps - clubs were stretched to tightly fix the shoe on the leg. If this is not done, the dislocation of the leg is guaranteed, because the arch supports were not yet made.
In this video you can watch the process of fastening:
1749 September - John June Great Britain. c. 1745. Silver buckles 1780. and from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
Buckle of the 18th century from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. The fact that it was made for women's shoes is indicated by its size
"Autumn" by John Collet, Lewis Walpole Library, Yale University.
Women's buckles XVIII century with rhinestones from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev . They were so lovely that many of them were later remade into hair clips and belt buckles. And bracelets were made from large, strongly curved male buckles.
Spring 1779 from the Lewis Walpole Collection
18th century buckle with rhinestones from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev.
Levitsky D.G. "Portrait of Ekaterina Ivanovna Nelidova, Empress of the Educational Society for Noble Maidens". 1773
Levitsky D.G. "Portrait of Ekaterina Ivanovna Nelidova, Empress of the Educational Society for Noble Maidens". 1773. Fragment
18th century buckle with rhinestones from the collection of N. S. Mustafaev. I was fascinated with its grace by the clasp itself - "fork"
Shoes with straps for buckles made of silk with a large floral pattern on heels of medium height, with pointed toes. Great Britain. c. 1730. Buckles with rhinestones 1775 - 1781. Photo courtesy of N. S. Mustafaev.
The Great French Revolution in one day abolished the fashion for luxury. In Paris in November 1789The session of the Legislative Assembly opened with the fact that the deputies gave away their precious buckles in favor of the state treasury.
Illustration "Patriotic gift of famous French women". 1789
In 1791 in Birmingham, buckle makers sought an audience with the Prince of Wales (the future King George IV), imploring him to save the industry from ruin. He promised to help and introduced the mandatory wearing of buckles at court. But this only slightly delayed the inevitable end. Small smooth metal buckles were still in use for some time, which were worn with everyday shoes, but they disappeared by 1810."
But not forever. The fashion for buckles as a decorative element has returned more than once.
And here is a photo from the lookbook Alexander McQueen AUTUMN-WINTER 2017/2018 http://www. vogue.ru/collection/autumn_winter2017/menswear/london/Alexander_McQueen/ So, if you inherited a pair of buckles, you can decorate with them their shoes and pass for a fashionista)
On my own behalf and on behalf of all my readers, I want to say many thanks to Nazim Sultanovich Mustafaev for the opportunity to learn more about Rococo shoes! What museum would allow so many detailed photographs to be photographed and posted online? And I would patiently answer all my endless questions by e-mail)
I remind you that in the text of the post, the story of N. S. Mustafaev and information from his website http://www.shoe-icons.com/resources/ages were used. htm?id=41
You can also look at the buckles here: http://www.shoe-icons.com/collection/accessories.htm?age=41&perpage=50
You can read the 1st part of the story about 18th century shoes here http://la-gatta-ciara.livejournal.com/391832.html
I hope that we will return to this topic in the near future - in my plans tell you about shoe restoration.
Related links:
website of the First Russian Virtual Museum of Shoes www.shoe-icons.com
interesting blog about 18th century fashion based on the fashion magazines of those years "Galerie des Modes" and "Cabinet des Modes" http ://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.ru/search/label/18th%20century
Posts on the theme of the 18th century:
Children's corset of the 17th - 20th centuries. http://la-gatta-ciara.livejournal.com/294652.html
WOMEN IN MEN'S COSTUME. MUFTA http://la-gatta-ciara.livejournal.com/26890.html
MITTS http://la-gatta-ciara.livejournal.com/26462.html
Rococo: a man in flowers and fluttering butterflies.http ://la-gatta-ciara.livejournal.com/338423.html
Film "Marie Antoinette" and Rococo fashion. http://la-gatta-ciara.livejournal.com/550.html
Rococo and "Barry Lyndon": life in the light of candles. http://la-gatta-ciara.livejournal.com/339181.html
Exhibition "Three centuries of fashion (1715-2016)". XVIII century. http://la-gatta-ciara.livejournal.com/375149.html
tips for women and men
In the past, the belt was mostly worn to hold up trousers. Now this accessory helps us to change the proportions of the figure, put a bright accent and enrich the created image. And this applies to both women and men. We will tell you how to choose a women's and men's belt.
Types
Conventionally, all belts can be divided into two main groups: classic and informal (Casual style). Classics most often provides for a strict form and moderation in details. Informal style is a reflection of freedom and individuality, so unusual shapes and bright colors will be appropriate here.
Classic
This type of accessory is present in the wardrobe of almost any man, women also use such belts. They have a classic design and, as a rule, a small width - from 3 to 3.5 cm, and the thickness does not exceed 25.5 mm. The model goes well with business suits and classic shoes. There are usually two loops in it, one of which is fixed next to the buckle, and the other moves freely. The traditional colors of the classic version are black and brown, less often gray, and leather or eco-leather is used as the material. The buckle is rectangular, the color can be silver or gold, matte or glossy.
Casual
The free style differs from the classics in a variety of details, colors and textures. The width of an informal men's belt can be about 5 cm, and the main emphasis is on the buckle - usually it is massive and attracts attention with its unusual design. The casual style belt goes well with trousers and jeans, so in the wardrobe of both men and women there are usually several of them - with rivets, embossed on the buckle, made of fabric or woven from leather.
Selection rules
Buying a women's or men's belt is not a problem, but it's important to buy something that will meet your expectations and provide comfort, as well as go with your clothes. When choosing an accessory, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:
- The quality of the material. In order for the thing to serve for a long time, it is better to give preference to belts made of genuine leather or high-quality eco-leather. They will not only last a long time, but they will also look better than an inexpensive and short-lived accessory. You can check the quality of the material by gently running your fingernail along the back of the product. The trace left on the material testifies in favor of good quality. This indicates the softness and suppleness of the skin. The immunity of the material to such “tests” indicates that, most likely, old leather was used for sewing. The product is not worth buying.
- Sewing. The poor quality of the seams is immediately visible, so inspect the strap from all sides. Sticking threads can not only spoil the look, but also reduce the life of the product.
- Buckle. The best option is an open buckle with a laconic shape. It looks attractive and goes well with classic trousers. There are also closed types: with an anchor on the back and with a clip. The second option does not imply the presence of holes and is found in most cases on fabric straps.
- Dimensions. In order for the belt to qualitatively perform its main function of supporting trousers and not cause discomfort, it is important not to make a mistake with the size. An easy way to determine the length is to measure the length of the old product. You can also measure the waist and add 10-15 cm. For example, if the waist is 70 cm, then the working size of the belt will be 70 cm (to the center hole). The total length of the strap will be 85 cm. The length of the free ponytail should not be more than 15 cm - otherwise the belt will interfere and look ugly.
Regardless of whether you choose a belt - classic or casual, it must be of high quality and fit the parameters of your figure. Only in this case, he will be able to perform his immediate functions for a long time and be the finishing touch in creating your image.
Differences in women's accessories
First of all, it should be noted that women's belts differ in design, color and texture. Women's belt can be bright, lacquered, decorated with beads and rhinestones. But there are also many classic women's belt options with a discreet, concise design. As a rule, women's accessories are slightly narrower than men's. Their approximate width is 2.5-3 cm. There are also wider models.
The leather from which women's belts are made is very soft and can have an interesting, unusual texture (for example, like a python). Buckles on women's belts can be bright and catchy, with non-standard decor and embroidery, or, on the contrary, concise.
Women's belts are more fashionable than men's belts. A fashionista, choosing such an accessory, usually seeks to emphasize her taste and unique style. It is also important for girls that the accessory goes well with shoes and other items of clothing.
Combination with clothes
Basic rules for matching:
- The color of a classic strap should be combined with boots or a briefcase, but be darker than the clothes. For example, if you put on a dark suit and brown shoes, then the belt in this case should also be brown.
- The pairing of a men's trouser belt with a watch strap is an indicator of great taste. Also often choose a model in which the buckle matches the metal of the dial.
- Stick to a uniform style of clothing. If you have chosen a classic suit, then the belt should be strict, without bright decor and other excesses. On the contrary, wide models with different buckles are perfect for jeans or casual trousers.
- Do not fasten the accessory to the first or last hole. It is customary to thread the tail through no more than two loops located on the belt of the trousers.
Universal models include dark brown leather and brown woven leather.